I'm walkin' to New Orleans...

Just received an email from the New orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival announcing that "the most important Jazz Fest in history" will be held April 28-30 and May 5-7. Tickets are available at nojazzfest.com.

This year's official poster (at left) features Fats Domino in "Rockin' to New Orleans" by James Michalopoulos.

Press Release
New Orleans, LA (January 31, 2006)—After months of anticipation, organizers of the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival today officially confirmed the 2006 dates for the Jazz Fest they say will be the most important in the history of the event. The first post-Katrina Jazz Fest will be held on April 28-30 and May 5-7 at its traditional home, the Fair Grounds Race Course.

Jazz Fest Producer/Director Quint Davis said, “We’re dedicating this year’s Festival to the people of New Orleans and inviting everybody who cares about this city to come to Jazz Fest and play a meaningful role in bringing back the city’s culture, which is the soul of America. Jazz Fest 2006 will be a homecoming party for thousands of New Orleans musicians, Festival chefs and craftspeople, and we want the world to join us in welcoming them back as we present the celebration of a lifetime.”

Sponsorship of this year’s Festival, according to Davis, is one of the major reasons why the Festival is happening as planned. “In light of the great financial challenges of presenting the 2006 Festival on the grand scale everyone is accustomed to, we simply could not have produced Jazz Fest without unprecedented corporate support from Shell, who becomes the Festival’s first-ever Presenting Sponsor.”

The Edge and U2 Offer Aid to New Orleans By SOLVEJ SCHOU, Associated Press Writer

LOS ANGELES - With a long-held affection for New Orleans, a city he calls "very unique and very special," U2 rocker The Edge felt compelled to try to help it recover from Hurricane Katrina. The result: Music Rising, an organization that provides instruments to musicians blasted by the storm. The city especially took hold of his heart in 2001 after he and the band, while playing there, suffered a tragedy back home. A storage area in Dublin where they kept a lot of instruments was wiped out in a flood.

"Luckily," he recalls, "my main guitars were with us in New Orleans ... the Gibson Explorer that I've had since I was 17-years-old, and the amplifier I've used on every album for every show since we got a record deal." Four years later, after Katrina blew through New Orleans, the memory of that good fortune led him to create Music Rising, along with Gibson Guitar, the Guitar Center Music Education Foundation and the MusicCares Foundation. - complete story

A noble experiment

Well, sometimes things do not work as planned. Internet hookup problems (apparently limited to MY room!) got me behind schedule and I never regained momentum. I think it would have been pretty cool had the entries been continuous, more contemporaneous, providing a feel for the activities as they occurred (well, as soon as I got back to the Residence Inn). But the trip was great fun. Great, eclectic music both at the festival and in the city; interesting food (although an ill-advised fish burrito at our Mexican restaurant on Friday night propelled itself into the toilet about 3am without the benefit of digestion).

Bars/Restaurants

Taqueria Corona - review Ever have a fish burrito? Recommended by new-best-friend-at-Fest Jeff, a would-be non-profit concert promoter from Dallas area. If not, you may want to pass. Good marguaritas, though.

Maple Leaf Bar - photo - description Our last stop on Friday night (after eating the infamous fish burrito) was here to see Jon Cleary and the Absolute Monster Gentlemen. After paying the $20 cover, you enter a long, narrow barroom. Open doorways on the right allow entrance to another room where JC&TAMG were already playing- relatively small hall with a stage at the front. The room is packed, hot and sweaty. The stage is not elevated, so I only HEAR Jon for the first 15 minutes because he's sitting at his piano at the front of the stage. J-Gumbo listens from the bar, but I inch my way forward and finally get to see much of what I'm hearing. Worth the effort; JC puts on great, high-energy FUNK.

Port of Call - website After a failed attempt at lunch here on rainy Saturday, we succeeded on Sunday in acquiring four bar seats immediately to the right of the entrance - good viewing spot. Two Monsoons and a monster hamburger/backed potato to fill me forever. We overheard a Teri Hatcher clone relate to her new-best-bar-friend that she met her now-husband there twelve years ago and was returning for the first time since (btw, while 'they' may have been real and were borderline spectacular, 'they' have been downsized significantly since last sighted).

House of Blues - website

Rock 'N Bowl - website Alas, I had heard so much about this strange, but very cool concept. We tried to go there on Saturday night, but arrived to find the line way too long to negotiate, so we didn't get to sample (on two stages, upstairs and down) Snooks Eaglin, George Porter Jr., Eddie Bo, Russell Batiste, Anders Osborne, Terrance Simien, Theresa Andersson. Music goes from 9pm till about 2pm!!!!

13 Monahan - After failing at Port of Call, we happened upon this bar via an unsolicited recommendation from a passerby (go there, they have sandwiches and booze and everything!). Memorable spot, if only because our barkeep, Corrina, kept storing her pen in her ample cleavage (hey, you notice those things!).

Lucy's Retired Surfers Bar and Restaurant - website - Bloody Marys to start the day.

Information by Wcities - During the day, this place serves as the perfect lunch break getaway for the young professional crowd working in the Warehouse District. At night, it is the after-work drinking hole for the same crowd. It is a great change of pace from the bars in the Quarter. The interior of this place resembles an old Tiki bar,+1 and the staff wears Aloha shirts and occasionally straw hats. A California influence is apparent in the grilled shrimp and fish specialties. You will also enjoy a large selection of Southwestern breakfast dishes and burritos. (Open Hours: 11:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri; 5pm-10pm Mon-Thu; 9am-3pm Fri-Sat)

Cafe du Monde - website Gumbo and I shared a romantic early morning respite of latte/beignets, while observing a group of good ol boys and their belles winding down after a hard night of partying. One very attractive young lady was overheard to say (and I kid you not), "It's not easy being gorgeous."

Emeril's Delmonico website- I missed out on this wonderful opportunity by leaving a day early, but I defer to Johnny Gumbo's comment. "All the hype and more, especially if you're treated like someone special (as if we were) because of BD's connection."

Music

Top 5


Allen Toussaint - JR and I caught most of this session. Wonderful. Looking almost elegant in suit and tie at the piano, but good and funky backed by a great band and two backup singers. He wrote/produced many early New Orleans hits. Bought the CD Allen Toussaint Collection at the Louisiana Music Factory.

Tribute to Sister Rosetta Tharpe -

Neville Brothers - The Nevilles always close JazzFest. They disappointed me with their show at Oakdale several years ago and I desperately wanted to see them at their best. I did.

Ike Turner - You gotta love Ike. Seventy-four years old, in great voice and playing a mighty fine blues piano (and guitar). When his Tina-clone mistimed her part after a hot piano solo, we looked at each other knowingly - tonight......whack!

Marcia Ball - She closed the Friday Fest with an infectiously energetic set. You can tell the fans adore her.

Good Stuff
CJ Chenier & the Red Hot Louisiana Band -
Jon Cleary -
Wayne Toups& the Zydecajuns - Wayne informs the crowd this is his 20th year at the Fest. Good zydecowith a rock slant, crowd favorite.
Galactic -
Elvis Costello & the Imposters -

Disappointing

Marva Wright & the BMWs
Little Feat - at the House of Blues

Sunday

We heard the whispers; he was in town, he was doing the Fest. But never did we imagine we'd meet him. Johnny Gumbo.

Pre-Fest:

Glorious day! Clear, cool, breezy. JK/JR up early for obigatory walk to Cafe Du Monde. Bloody Marys at Lucy's Lunch at Port of Call; Monsoons

Festival- final day):

Tribute to Sister Rosetta Thorpe in the Blues Tent Gospel Neville Brothers redeemed themselves with a great show to close the festival.

Post-Fest

Shell Fest- Johnny Gumbo wows the crowd with his dexterity in limbo contest; finishes 5th Little Feat concert at House of Blues

Saturday

Woke up early for walk with JR. Looking overcast, ominous. And the rains came, pouring steadily until about 2pm when, peering outside from our lunch bar,13 Monahan, we took note that the rain ceased. Off to the Fest! Lots of mud, but the crowd deals with it.

First stop, Wayne Toups& the Zydecajuns; Wayne informs the crowd this is his 20th year at the Fest. Good zydecowith a rock slant, crowd favorite. Off to see Marva Wright in the Blues Tent; ok, but a little disappointing after hearing her cd. Short stint with local band Galactic. JR/JK catch most of the Allen Toussaint session. Wonderful. Looking almost elegant in suit and tie at the piano, but good and funky backed by a great band and two backup singers. BD/MG find Walter Wolfman & the Roadmasters and come back with rave reviews. Elvis Costello bounds onto the stage and launches into "Watching the Detective". Finish up with Ike Turner. Ike is in fine voice and attire. First song we catch is "Rocket 88".

Friday

Got to the Fest about 4pm, actually plenty of time. Sampled food. Music highlights were CJ Chenier & the Red Hot Louisiana Band and Marcia Ball, a real crowd favorite.

Then off to have some fish burritos and marguaritas (which would come back to haunt me in the middle of the night)with JR/Jeff (Dallas friend of BD). Then finish the night at the Maple Leaf Cafe to see Jon Cleary and the Absolute Monster Gentlemen. Maple Leaf is a small venue, hot and crowded with limited sight-lines, But Cleary puts on a great show.

And they're off!!!!!!!!!!

Back on the air….please be patient……internet hookup problems here at the Residence Inn on Saturday morning

Ready to roll

Met with JR last night to review/plan. He and I will be sharing one of the two bedrooms; I get the rollaway bed. BD/MG get the good room because they have been doing this for 1,000 years. I leave at 8am, arrive at 2:15pm (three hours in Philly!), travel 1st class; the rest of the crew leaves later, arrives earlier, but travels coach. They PROMISE to wait 20 minutes for me.

Best we can do is about three hours at the Fest on Friday, so decisions will have to be made. I, the ROOK, will probably have no vote. Note to cruise the club grids for Friday night club entertainment. Update: Marcia Ball is playing late Friday so to the Fest we will go.

Packing - shorts, tee shirts, hat (may go Kickbox 2000), sun screen (very important, I'm advised), SNEAKERS, one extra pair of underwear should be sufficient, no? Laptop.

Update: told to bring slacks to dine at Delmonico's on Monday night.

Delmonico’s 1300 St. Charles Avenue 525-4937 In 1895, Anthony LaFranca opened Delmonico’s. The establishment remained in his family until Emeril LaGasse, the celebrity chef of Emeril’s, bought the New Orleans institution. Emeril describes the menu at Delmonico’s as "classic Creole reinvented for the contemporary palate." Dished include Victorian favorites such as beef Wellington, chicken Clemenceau (grilled), Crabmeat Imperial and Chateaubriand. Crepes, café brulot and other specialties are cooked tableside. The inside is completely restored and includes a wine cellar and private dining rooms. Interior designers Ann Holden and Ann Dupuy have decorated the inside in a sumptuous array of neutrals. Expensive. Reservations a must. Jackets recommended; no t-shirts, blue jeans or tennis shoes. Lunch Monday through Friday; Dinner seven nights a week. Major credit cards accepted. Location: on the street car line just outside of the CBD.

JR back from the front

Piano Night
JR is back in town resting from last weekend's fest. Highlight was attending a WWOZ fundraiser called "Piano Night" at Generations Hall, a renovated warehouse in, where else, but the Warehouse District! Held each year on the Monday night between the two New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival weekends, Piano Night exists to honor and extend the great New Orleans Piano tradition. This year's honoree was Allen Toussaint.

Performing stages are set at opposite ends of the building, the Piano Band Stage and the Solo Piano Stage, with attendees roaming the space between listening to the music and feasting of great food and drink. Alternatively, for an additional fee, you can be in the balcony area, which runs the length of the building. It is an eight-hour event featuring over forty performers, with this year's headliners Marcia Ball, Eddie Bo and Dr. John. Goes from 6pm to the wee hours of the morning - a daunting task for someone who must get up at 4am to get to the airport! And with aching puppies! But our boy did it and we love him for it.

Mo' Fest
JR also sampled another of the many 'mini-festivals' that have sprung up as the Festival evolved - Mo' Fest. No, it isn't- not that there's anything wrong with that. Mo' Fest showcases great local talent and is held Mon/Tues at Hibernia Pavilion,Woldenberg Riverfront Park - and it's free!

Food!
More to come.

Word from the Front

Actually, no words, just JR leaving phone messages with NO narrative, just music, like he's got some kind of portable Bose system that makes me feel like I'm right there. NOT! I have misplaced his cell# and can't call him. We need a report, people!

Spoke with JR via bad cell connection. He said he was in a bad place. I told him I didn't give a shit about his mental state, but wanted a report about the Festival. Poor boy, his feet all blistered from lots of walking in his sandals (poor, stupid boy). But weather/music/food have been spectacular. Meters, Dr. John and a host of others; he has been taking notes.

The Planning

I must have a plan; something like going to Disney World for the first time - an attack strategy to do as much as I can in the time available, regardless of sleep constraints.

Behave Misbehave (within reason, of course, for I am a responsible adult. I think. Kinda.) At the Festival, figure a way to catch most of the great 'known' acts while also discovering some of the wonderful musicians I have never heard of. Cruise the clubs at night to sample great acts in smaller settings. Eat tons of wonderfully spicy, exotic foods without ballooning to 300 lbs and/or puking. Drink gallons of tasty, exotic beers without ballooning to 300 lbs and/or puking. Buy some great music to bring back to the boys and girls at home. Maybe get BD to offer some neat little additions to Reet Says Eat.

Friday, April 29th

Saturday, April 30th

Sunday, May 1st

2nd Weekend Club Dates

Impending dilemma- Saturday, April 30:

Elvis Costello & Imposters, Ike Turner & Kings of Rhythm, Dave Matthews Band all playing at the same time! KA says it's a no-brainer - Elvis

Preliminary 'must-see' listing:

Marva Wright & the BMWs - JR brought back a CD from last year's Fest and I love this big ol gal; seriously powerful voice; blues/gospel Dixie Cups - 60's girl group who gave us "Going to the Chapel" and contributed "Iko Iko" to the wonderful "Big Easy" soundtrack CD; I don't have false expectations, but I want to see them. Maria Muldaur/ Marcia Ball/Angela Strehli/Irma Thomas in a tribute to Sister Rosetta Thorpe - great potential with this group (although I'd love to see Lou Ann Barton included) Neville Brothers - I have to give New Orleans' "House Band" another chance; always been a big fan of their music (Wild Tchoupitoulas is a CLASSIC album), but was very disappointed in their performance at Oakdale Theatre about 10 years ago. Here's hoping they keep Aaron Neville's cloying falsetto under control.

The Decision

After months of procrastinating, I have decided to go. JR has been urging me to go for awhile now, saying that I would REALLY appreciate the amount/quality/diversity of the music, both at the Festival itself and at the downtown clubs each evening (and into the early morning), but I've been reluctant to splurge on myself. The Reet, a rabid New Orleans promoter since her trip to the 2004 'Final Fur', has been pushing for me to go. So, when I won about $350 at a card raffle (ten of spades), I rationalized that I wasn't spending 'family' cash. Immediately called TK, who graciously gave me some of his millions of air miles (first class, no less) to use.

I will be attending the second weekend of the two-weekend mega-music event, plenty for a Festival virgin. JR and BD, Festival veterans, are going both weeks. They leave early tomorrow morning.